A woman with a glass of wine and a slice of pizza on a cafe terrace in Bozel, as France reopens terraces
First day of partial un-lockdown - Eating on a terrace.

Fête des Terrasses

If you are new to France, you might have mistaken today, 19 May 2021, for a public holiday in France. You might have thought everyone in France was celebrating a national day, perhaps a day named ‘Terrace Day’ or ‘Fête des Terrasses’.

France Reopens Terraces After Nearly Seven Months

You are not far out. 19 May 2021 is the first day in France when the country starts to relax its sanitary protocol for restaurants, cafes and bars. These establishments have been closed since November 2020, the start of the second national lockdown. 

Every Table Booked Weeks Ago

All day long, you can see people flocking to restaurants and cafes that have terraces, flooding the very limited number of tables. If the guests are lucky, they can find a space to enjoy a coffee, a drink or a meal. Most, though, walk away disappointed. Regulars booked these tables last week, or even the month before.

A man at an outdoor terrace table with two pizzas in Bozel, Savoie, as France reopens terraces

Ten Degrees and Pouring Rain — Nobody Cares

Even if you manage to secure a table, you might not be able to enjoy a meal in a comfortable setting. The weather has not been that friendly for the past few weeks. We are having a cold, rainy spell with only a couple of sunny hours per day. Nevertheless, people are enjoying their first day of dining out, especially since they have the right to stay two more hours outdoors. Besides opening the terraces today, the government has also shortened the curfew hours by two hours.

Chasing a Table in Bozel, Savoie

Silviu and I have decided to spend a long weekend in the mountains, in Bozel, Savoie. After a 7-hour drive, we got to the town in time to catch the last two hours before the curfew closes on us. A quick walk around the small town has shown us what we expected. 

The few eateries that have outdoor settings are completely full. Despite a pelting rain with a chilly temperature hovering around 10 degrees Celsius, crowds are huddling close and making merry with a glass of wine or a mug of beer in one hand. For a moment, the year-long pandemic seems to have vanished. Then you spot a mask dangling from an ear, or resting carelessly round someone’s chin.

We are not about to miss the Terrace Day celebration. So when we chance upon a pizzeria with outdoor seating, we decide to brave the elements. So, here we are, wrapped up from head to toe, trying to enjoy our food.

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