My husband and I spent the entire month of July in Singapore. He was there for work while I of course would not miss out on the opportunity to be in my home country. Taking advantage of Singapore being a hub for Southeast Asia travel, we planned a 3-day getaway to Hoi An, Vietnam.
The Goal: A Slow-Paced Hoi An Getaway
Hoi An is a town 30 km away from Danang, a modern coastal city in Vietnam (halfway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City). Hoi An’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its well-preserved 15th-to-19th-century trading port.
We chose Hoi An because we wanted a getaway where we didn’t have to do much. We wanted a serene trip without feeling pressured to rush between trendy landmarks to ‘打卡 (Da Ka)’. It is a Chinese slang term referring to checking into and taking photos of popular spots and sharing them on social media. A beach resort would nicely fit our criterion.
Surprising Serenity on Hoi An’s Coast
There were many beaches along the shoreline of Hoi An. Our hotel sat just two minutes from Tan Thanh Beach, which was surprisingly calm for the season. The main street, about two hundred metres long, was lined with family-owned restaurants, massage and nail spas, bars and cafés. Despite these tourist traps, we didn’t see more than ten tourists around, day or night. Nevertheless, the laid-back atmosphere suited us.
Our 3-Part Plan for Chilling Out
We got to Hoi An around lunch time on a Wednesday and departed on the following Saturday. It left us with two-and-a-half days in this town. Since our objective was to just chill out, we came up with our daily programme, which consisted of three parts.
First, we would spend the first part of the day at the beach to take advantage of the milder temperature. After that, we would hibernate in our air-conditioned hotel room until early evening to avoid the worst of the heat. Then, we would explore the old town in the evening. And we did stick to the plan during our stay in Hoi An.
Front-Row Loungers by the sea
For the two mornings that we were at Hoi An, my husband and I would get to the beach after our breakfast at the hotel. By 10 a.m., we would have rented and settled down on two green sun loungers on the beach, which was managed by the beach restaurant, Moon Sea.
We were always one of the earliest ones to get to the beach and were able to get the front row loungers with no obstruction to the sea. Like on the main street, we did not see many tourists on the beach in the morning—fewer than twenty each day.
Discovering Iced Salted Coffee
After picking our spot, we would place our orders for drinks: invariably, lime juice and iced salted coffee. It was the first time I tried salted coffee. When I first saw the word “salted” allied with “coffee”, my brain immediately sent out alarm signals. However, the tranquillity of the beach and my holiday mood emboldened me to try the seemingly convoluted beverage. I didn’t turn back after the first sip.
When "Doing Nothing" Is Harder Than It Looks
By nature, we are not beach people; hills and mountains, far away from the populace, are our preference. Incidentally, before our move to France, we were even living in Mui Wo, a coastal village in Hong Kong. Even then, we rarely set foot on the beach. Instead, we usually spent our free time in the lush mountains of Mui Wo.
Mountain People in Search of a Beach Routine
We often got restless on the beach as we didn’t know what to do to occupy our time. Splashing around, suntanning, or building sandcastles are not our cup of tea. Even though we wanted a beach holiday of doing nothing, we didn’t concretely think through the idea. What could we possibly do to idle away a few hours on the beach, other than just sipping cocktails?
Despite frequently checking our watches, we managed to stay put on the beach for two solid hours. We spent the time watching teenagers taking windsurfing and paddle boating lessons, observing our neighbouring sunbathers, sipping our refreshing drinks, reading our Kindles, sketching the beach scene, and dipping into the sea. In the end, we fulfilled our goal of a true beach holiday.
Local Dishes and Well-Earned Me-Time
Afterward, we sampled local dishes like banh mi, cao lau, pho and goi cuon at nearby eateries. If I had stayed a few more days in Hoi An, I might have eventually gotten used to chilling out on a beach.
After lunch, we headed back to our hotel to avoid the blistering sun. However, on the second day, I ditched my husband after lunch to get a bit of me-time. I stopped by a local spa for a relaxing nail and massage session. I rarely treat myself like this since leaving finance to become a freelance English teacher in France.
When the Sun Sets: Hoi An’s Ethereal Night Scene
Once the sun began to dip and the air became less stifling, we would explore the ancient city. Indeed, it was certainly a scene not to be missed, especially after the sun set when entire streets were lit up.
All around us, evening strollers were treated to a magical night scene of silk lanterns above historic streets and fairy lights dangling from the trees. Meanwhile, on the dark waters of the Thu Bon River, candle-lit lotus-shaped paper lanterns added an ethereal charm.
The 5-Star Conundrum: Aggressive Review Culture in Vietnam
While searching online for local spots, we noticed almost every venue boasted near-perfect five-star ratings. How was it possible that almost everyone achieved such sterling reviews? The conundrum for us, as consumers, was which service provider to choose.
Incentivized Praise: Freebies
Eventually, during my visit to the spa, the reasons behind the almost perfect ratings became clear. Some businesses were soliciting reviews through ‘gifts’ to customers. Another instance was at the hotel. During checkout, the receptionist handed us coconut crackers while asking us to leave a review on Google. I didn’t blame them for their behaviour as I considered their actions inoffensive though slightly bothersome. It was very likely that employees at these establishments had Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) to meet.
From Friendly Freebies to High-Pressure Reviews
That said, when the solicitation became too in-your-face, it left a bad taste in the mouth. Case in point: on our last night, we went to a seafood restaurant in the old village. There was nothing to complain about with the food; in fact, the dishes were scrumptious.
Just as we prepared to leave, our waiter came up to us, requesting a review. We politely promised to do one later. Rather than letting us leave, he insisted we write the review on the spot. Consequently, we felt like we were being bullied into giving a review. The waiter stood close to my husband and watched over my husband’s shoulder as my husband sent out the review. Only after the confirmation screen appeared did the waiter finally walk away.
Avoiding Confrontation (and Getting Even Later)
Being in a foreign country, there wasn’t much we could do. Besides, it was not worthwhile to start a confrontation over such a trivial matter. Perhaps it was simply a cultural misunderstanding. Ultimately, we got our little revenge by deleting the review when we left Hoi An.
Final Reflections and Future Travels
Apart from that unfortunate episode, we enjoyed our short stay in Hoi An, especially the local food and drink. In fact, some of the local dishes reminded me of the Chinese food that I was brought up on in Singapore. For example, the fried rice and stir-fried morning glory tasted remarkably like the comfort food of my childhood.
If opportunities allow, I would like to visit Vietnam again. This time round, I would choose a more rugged experience—exploring the mountain regions. The trip could then be easily rounded off with a short, relaxed stay at Hoi An.
