The destination for Day 2 was Annecy, the capital of Haute-Savoie department. To get to Annecy, we needed to get deep into the Massif des Bauges. This meant covering 70km and tackling some hills, including Col de Leschaux, a mountain pass.
Bikepacking Snapshot
Day 1: Grenoble (Isère) – Chambéry (Savoie); 70 km, 350 m elevation gain
Day 2: Chambéry (Savoie) – Aix-les-Bains (Savoie) – Col de Leschaux – Annecy (Haute-Savoie); 70 km, 805 m elevation gain
Day 3: Annecy (Haute-Savoie) – Albertville (Savoie) – Montmélian (Savoie); 85 km, 142 m elevation gain
Day 2 Route
The first 24 km got us to Aix-les-Bains. It was a spa town situated on the shores of Lac du Bourget. We rode mainly on La Belle Via (dedicated flat cycling lane) along Lac du Bourget. The challenge started immediately after leaving Aix-les-Bains: 29 km of winding ascent crossing the Col de Leschaux mountain pass. It was then followed by 12 km of descent before rolling 5 km into Annecy.
Carb-Loading in Spa Town Luxury
We left for Aix-les-Bains soon after a quick snack of the leftover fruits purchased the previous day. The plan was to get a more substantial meal at the spa town. By the time we reached Aix-les-Bains, tourists were already out and about. Following a breakfast stop and a swift tour of the city-centre, we left the spa town.
Spinning and Grinding into the Massif des Bauges
The ascent came in two stages: 16 km for the first part and 7 km for the second. But there was a welcome 6 km of flat respite in between. Compared to the slopes of Day 1, those of Day 2 were not as steep, averaging 4% to 5%. Yet, they were interminably long. In my lowest gear, I spun and spun, holding a steady cadence until Col de Leschaux, under three hours.
A Crowd at the Col
I didn’t notice many cyclists during the ascent. Thus, I was surprised to see over thirty cyclists of all ages gathering around the drinking fountain at the top. Moreover, an atmosphere of conviviality reigned in the gathering: everybody was just delighted to have finished the climb.
Despite the physical challenge, I couldn’t help noticing the bucolic landscape that rolled by. Cerulean skies stretched overhead as I rode past nonchalant grazing cows on green meadows, interspersed with sun-bleached dry grass patches.
Overheating Brakes on the Descent
What goes up must come down. The arrival at Col de Leschaux did not signify that it would be a laid-back ride the rest of the way. I had a fear of descent, notably steep ones. My imagination would go into overdrive. Mental images of me being flung off the saddle, hitting the ground, and being run over by cyclists behind would fill up my mind. Consequently, I braked too often, resulting in me slowing down unnecessarily.
That happened again during the 12 km descent towards Annecy. My irrational fear prevented me from overtaking a family with three young kids riding just ahead of us.
The Venice of the Alps
We arrived in Annecy just after 2 p.m. Even knowing that Annecy was nicknamed “Venice of the Alps”, I was still shocked by the number of holidaymakers. The crowd significantly slowed down our entrance into the city through La Belle Via. Once we got into the historical city, it was a struggle to push through the throngs with our bikes. The city felt far busier than during our last visit in Annecy in 2016 when we were passing through for a trail running race in Faverges.
A Well-Earned Fondue
After cleaning up at the hotel, we got out to explore the city and get lunch. Having completed Day 2, which was the hardest day of this 3-day bikepacking trip, I could relax. To reward ourselves for a hard day’s work, we got a Savoyard fondue for dinner, disregarding the scorching weather.
The Final Stretch Awaits
As we settled in for the night, just one more day of cycling remained. It would be the longest day, in terms of distance—85km, but with hardly any climbs. It would be a smooth ride, wouldn’t it?
